Watches · Red Meat & Cigar Club editorial

Caring for a Mechanical Watch

Keep it ticking for decades.

A quality mechanical watch can run for generations with reasonable care. Most of that care is common sense, plus periodic servicing by a qualified watchmaker. Here's what to know.

Winding

Manual-wind watches: wind at about the same time each day, ideally in the morning. Turn the crown until you feel resistance and stop — don't force it. Modern movements have mechanisms that make overwinding difficult, but there's no reason to push.

Automatics: they wind themselves when worn. If one has stopped, give the crown 20 to 40 turns to get it running before setting the time.

Wind and set watches off your wrist to avoid putting sideways stress on the crown stem.

Setting the date

Many mechanical watches with a date complication warn against changing the date when the hands are roughly between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m., when the date-change mechanism is engaged. Forcing it then can damage the movement. Move the hands to around 6 o'clock first. Check your manual.

Magnetism

Magnetism is one of the most common causes of a mechanical watch suddenly running very fast. It can magnetize the hairspring, causing its coils to stick together. Everyday sources include speakers, laptop and tablet magnets, magnetic phone cases and mounts, handbag clasps, and some medical equipment. Keep watches a few inches from strong magnets. A watchmaker can demagnetize a watch quickly and cheaply. Some modern watches are built to resist magnetism to high levels.

Water

• Know your watch's water-resistance rating, and screw down the crown if it's a screw-down type.
• Don't operate the crown or chronograph pushers in water unless the watch is designed for it.
• Avoid hot tubs, saunas, and hot showers. Heat can make gaskets expand and contract, and soap and chemicals degrade seals.
• Rinse with fresh water after salt water or chlorine.
• Have water resistance tested periodically, especially before swimming with an older watch.

Shock and temperature

Modern watches have shock protection systems, but hard impacts — golf, tennis, hammering, dropping on tile — can still cause damage. Avoid leaving watches in extreme heat (like a car dashboard in summer) or extreme cold.

Cleaning

Wipe the case and bracelet with a soft microfiber cloth. Steel bracelets can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush and mild soapy water if the watch is water-resistant and the crown is secured. Leather straps should be kept dry and rotated; sweat and water shorten their life.

Servicing

A mechanical movement runs on tiny amounts of lubricant that break down over time. A full service usually involves disassembling the movement, cleaning, replacing worn parts, re-lubricating, regulating, and replacing gaskets. Manufacturers' recommended intervals vary — many now suggest five to 10 years — and some brands have extended intervals with modern lubricants and materials. Warning signs that service is due include significant changes in accuracy, reduced power reserve, a gritty feel when winding, or moisture under the crystal.

Choose between the manufacturer's service center and a qualified independent watchmaker. Brand service may replace original parts like hands or dials, which can affect vintage value; independent watchmakers may have limited access to parts for some brands. Ask before authorizing work.

Storage

Store watches somewhere dry, away from magnets and direct sunlight. A watch box or roll prevents scratches. A watch winder keeps automatics running, which is convenient for watches with complicated calendars, but it isn't necessary for most watches — letting an automatic stop won't harm it.

Accuracy expectations

Mechanical watches typically gain or lose some seconds each day. COSC-certified chronometers must average within -4 to +6 seconds per day under testing; some manufacturers set stricter internal standards. Position matters: leaving a watch dial up or crown down overnight can nudge its rate.

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