Watch Reviews · Profile & review in progress
Rolex Submariner
The dive watch introduced in 1953 that defined the category.
The Rolex Submariner is arguably the most influential watch design of the past 75 years. It helped define the dive watch, became a symbol of success, and has been copied endlessly. Here's the background ahead of our review.
History
Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953, presenting it publicly at the Basel watch fair in 1954. The first reference, the 6204, was water-resistant to 100 meters and featured a rotating bezel for timing dives, along with the Oyster case Rolex had introduced in 1926. Early Submariners were developed during the rise of recreational scuba diving, and Rolex worked with divers to refine the design.
Over the decades, the Submariner evolved: a crown guard arrived in the late 1950s; the first date version (ref. 1680) launched in 1969; sapphire crystals and higher water-resistance ratings followed. In 2020, Rolex updated the line with a 41 mm case and the Calibre 3230 (no-date) and 3235 (date) movements, with a power reserve of about 70 hours and water resistance to 300 meters.
Pop culture cemented its fame: Sean Connery wore a Submariner as James Bond in early films starting with Dr. No in 1962.
Design and specifications (current generation)
- Case: 41 mm Oystersteel (Rolex's name for its 904L stainless steel alloy), also offered in gold and two-tone versions.
- Bezel: unidirectional rotating bezel with a Cerachrom ceramic insert, introduced on the Submariner in the late 2000s.
- Crystal: sapphire, with a Cyclops magnifier over the date on date models.
- Movement: self-winding Calibre 3230 or 3235, certified as Superlative Chronometers with Rolex's in-house standard of −2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
- Water resistance: 300 meters, with a Triplock screw-down crown.
- Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with Glidelock extension system for fine adjustment without tools.
What we'll evaluate
- Design: legibility, proportions, and finishing.
- Movement: accuracy and power reserve in daily wear.
- Wearability: comfort, bracelet adjustment, and versatility.
- Value: retail vs. market prices and alternatives.
Things to know before buying
- Availability: in recent years, buying popular steel Rolex models at retail from authorized dealers has often required waiting lists. Rolex also operates a Certified Pre-Owned program through authorized dealers.
- Secondary market: pre-owned prices fluctuate and have at times been far above retail. Buy the seller: reputable dealers, authentication, and return policies matter.
- Counterfeits: the Submariner is among the most counterfeited watches. Professional authentication is worth paying for on a pre-owned purchase.
- Service: Rolex's recommended service interval for current models is about 10 years, according to the company.
Alternatives
The Tudor Black Bay and Pelagos (Tudor is Rolex's sister brand), Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and Seiko and Grand Seiko divers are all frequent comparisons. See our dive watch guide.
Status
No ratings have been assigned. We'll score the Submariner only after the hosts have spent real time with one.
Date vs. no-date
Collectors often debate the Submariner with and without a date window. The no-date version has a symmetrical dial closer to the original 1950s design; the date version adds practicality and the Cyclops lens. Both share the same case and bezel. Rolex has also offered color variations over the years, including the green-bezel "Kermit" and "Hulk" nicknamed models and the blue two-tone versions, which have become collectible in their own right.
Ratings
Ratings are editorial opinions and will be added once the hosts have spent time with this watch. No scores have been assigned yet.
The verdict
Coming soon.
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